As I paddle into the shore line of the beautiful Kirra Beach in QLD. I start to reflect on what has been as usual, some of the best times in my life spent out in the great wide ocean.
For those of you that have been following my adventures, you will know that I tore my rotator cuff clean off when I was being a snowboarding park rat in NIseko’s Hirafu park.
It’s summer you may think, yes this is correct - But apparently an under rotated 360 off a table top has been enough to leave me handicapped with a clipped wing for nearly 9 months.. And the physio think it’s still going to be another 3 months without using it (YIKES!).
Anyway, my life takes me to a lot of cool places; music festivals, A-list parties, Fashion events, Snow fields, Sports stars & Billionaires homes and into social circles most only dream of.
But it was today that I really felt at home, completely blessed to be where I was right at that moment…
And that moment had all begun at one of QLD’s best surf breaks in existence and my favourite spot in the world. Kirra beach.
The best part about this place is the locals are friendly, the water is a warm 22-25 degrees, the waves are clean and constant and the vibe is generally at an all time high.
I have my aunty Kirsty Webster to thank for this sick spot. It was at Kirra/Rainbow Bay where my surfing exposure first kicked off, only this time last year. She dragged me out on one of her long board, of about 9ft.
And pushed me onto a few white water waves, it was here a new fire began to burn!
I stayed with her for 5 days, surfing everyday sometimes twice a day, no matter how exhausted I was, we would be out there chasing the perfect Southernly winds to keep the break clean.
Since that day, it’s safe to say my surfing had come along in leaps and bounds. Kirst tried to explain to me on my second day out that I had gone from riding (in snowboarding terms) a green run straight to a double black, by paddling into 3ft+ waves after only a couple of hours on a board.
Surfing is something that can take you anywhere in the world and that it has. Every time I come back to see my Aunt I always have some sort of surf story for her.. Last time I told her of my crazy and scary adventures I had riding the waves of Bali and the infamous Lakey Peak… Where I had the best//worst & scariest rides of my life.
The place I was today though was perfect, it had been raining, the water was still warm and my favourite kind of tide was about to come in, High!
I always love me a bit of water, makes for bigger stronger waves with an easier slower ride and more space for the many eager shredders to find out place in the line up.
You’ve just gotta watch out for the suck back out into the back line up as the tide comes in. One minute you will have your spot dialled and owned, the next you are out behind the line up wondering how the heck you got there…
Surfing was something I never thought I would see as a family outing event but so fortunately for me, today it was! I had my younger cousin Zac my Aunt Kirst and her Hubby Andrew all paddle out together - the joy that brought me I can’t even articulate. To have something we could all do together and enjoy - cannot be replicated.
Something I always get a kick out of is seeing the baby groms out there with their Dad’s or Mum’s.. Today there were at least 4 under the age of 8. A couple getting pushed onto waves, and then 2 that were just absolutely ripping under the watchful eye of their parental(s).
Doesn’t matter if it’s the surf, skatepark or the mountains, when you see a tiny shredder, everyone is so hyped to see the birth of something great, the next generation of stoked people out there enjoying nature at it’s finest.
Apart from the tiny riders my next favourite thing to spot are .. You probably guessed it? Hot guys - No! (well duh we all love a good perve) but I am talking about my own kind of shredder - another lady rider!
The best thing about girls in general? They are out there against the odds and the heavily over powered gender domination that guys present by well, just being guys. We are out there generally 1 in about 20. Sometimes the ratio shrinks but most of the time we are a rare breed, in the surf or in the park.
That’s why I think we generally stick together, in line ups to drop into the park, or in the line up waiting for a wave.
Ladies are generally less forgiving of your mistakes, sometimes you can’t escape the inevitable of getting in someone’s way, stealing someones wave or just making a stupid mistake… It’s then you see people’s real character. And not once have I had trouble with the girls out there.. The men, I couldn’t say so much.. But in saying that, generally the dudes are stoked to see chicks and the chicks are stoked to see chicks so it’s a win win!
I can speak for myself and a lot of other ladies out there, that paddling into a line up of guys, waiting for a wave or being watched from above on the chair lifts by the dudes about to head to the park can be some of the most nerve wracking vibes ever. I can’t tell you if it’s because we are intimidated and why completely… But it probably has something to do with the amount of testosterone that you guys seem to project out into the place.
You’re hell competitive and generally shredd harder than us ladies as a general rule and there is probably underlying sexual tension between us all..
Whatever it is, we get a special kind of buzz when we really do master out domain and get to hold our own out there with “the big boys” so spare us a thought, because generally we are curious, caring and looking out for you.. So don’t bite our faces off trying to show off, just be chill and come for a line with us!
xx - E.